Facing the Shadows, Imagining the Future Part 1 in Budapest
It was just around 1992, my first time in Budapest. At the end of a camping car trip we finally arrived in the city of our ancestors. The Hungary we heard so much about: the language, the paprika, the culture, it was all there. I still remember. In 1992, the gates of the "free" world were open in the midst of austerity, the Lada cars and hidden identities.
26 years later, I am anxious to come back. As I look out the window, the first person I see in downtown Budapest is a hasidic Jew with a hat and tzitzit. "Is he crazy? It's dangerous" I tell myself just to realize that it is just a visceral reaction from the Europe I am used to: France.
The Jewish quarter is in the heart of the hipster area and full of tourist attractions. Young people offer a free walking tour of the Jewish heritage of Budapest in exchange for a modest tip. You have 3 other Kosher restaurants and you can hear Hebrew in the streets, see where Herzl was born and of course buy Judaica for souvenirs.
What a long way since 1992! What is happening in Budapest is not so different from what's happening in the Former Soviet Union. Young Jews discovering their Jewish roots, often hidden or repressed by parents. It is the story of children being called a "dirty Jew" in the schoolyard only to discover that they are actually Jewish when they come home.
In the midst of all of this, the Jewish Agency for Israel has played a crucial role in the rejunevation of Jewish life. Downtown stands tall the Israel Cultural Institute where you can learn Hebrew, visit the digital Herzl center, sign up for a Birthright trip, be part of the Minyanim leadership program or take part in a "mommy & me" session with Hebrew music in the background.
Tomi Buchler is a Jewish Agency leader in the community, we joke that we are related even though we are not, all the Buchlers in our family perished in the Holocaust. Our grandfathers come from the same area of Slovakia. I share with Tomi my mixed feelings about being here, that tomorrow I will visit where my grandmother lived and see where her brother disappeared.
Because it's not that simple. My grandmother kept strong connections with Hungary, coming back regularly, keeping contacts with people who helped during the war. At her shiva, I met people who grew up with her, moved to Israel and refused to be connected to anything Hungary. They even forgot the language, refused to step foot in the old Hungary, they were Israeli. I always wondered why she insisted on coming back, I think she wanted to show the Hungarians she was still there.
As I see Tomi bringing together the same evening Jews from Israel, Poland, Belarus, England and Hungary involved in the GLI Minyanim Fellowship, I also prepare myself for the next day where I will go back to face the shadows of the past. You hear about the Jobik party, you have the history of the Holocaust on every corner, yet you have a full renaissance of Jewish life here.
The next day, I take the time to step in front of my grandmother's apartment with the only item we have of her brother, a ring. He vanished in 1944 never to be found. His memory is contained in a Yav Vashem testimony page.
So, as I leave for Berlin (next blog post to follow), I look forward to coming back in 5 days this time with over 140 Jewish Federation leaders. I feel like I just started to uncover Budapest, I feel the shadows in the past, the memory and I am hopeful for the future here.
26 years later, I am anxious to come back. As I look out the window, the first person I see in downtown Budapest is a hasidic Jew with a hat and tzitzit. "Is he crazy? It's dangerous" I tell myself just to realize that it is just a visceral reaction from the Europe I am used to: France.
The Jewish quarter is in the heart of the hipster area and full of tourist attractions. Young people offer a free walking tour of the Jewish heritage of Budapest in exchange for a modest tip. You have 3 other Kosher restaurants and you can hear Hebrew in the streets, see where Herzl was born and of course buy Judaica for souvenirs.
What a long way since 1992! What is happening in Budapest is not so different from what's happening in the Former Soviet Union. Young Jews discovering their Jewish roots, often hidden or repressed by parents. It is the story of children being called a "dirty Jew" in the schoolyard only to discover that they are actually Jewish when they come home.
In the midst of all of this, the Jewish Agency for Israel has played a crucial role in the rejunevation of Jewish life. Downtown stands tall the Israel Cultural Institute where you can learn Hebrew, visit the digital Herzl center, sign up for a Birthright trip, be part of the Minyanim leadership program or take part in a "mommy & me" session with Hebrew music in the background.
Tomi Buchler is a Jewish Agency leader in the community, we joke that we are related even though we are not, all the Buchlers in our family perished in the Holocaust. Our grandfathers come from the same area of Slovakia. I share with Tomi my mixed feelings about being here, that tomorrow I will visit where my grandmother lived and see where her brother disappeared.
Because it's not that simple. My grandmother kept strong connections with Hungary, coming back regularly, keeping contacts with people who helped during the war. At her shiva, I met people who grew up with her, moved to Israel and refused to be connected to anything Hungary. They even forgot the language, refused to step foot in the old Hungary, they were Israeli. I always wondered why she insisted on coming back, I think she wanted to show the Hungarians she was still there.
As I see Tomi bringing together the same evening Jews from Israel, Poland, Belarus, England and Hungary involved in the GLI Minyanim Fellowship, I also prepare myself for the next day where I will go back to face the shadows of the past. You hear about the Jobik party, you have the history of the Holocaust on every corner, yet you have a full renaissance of Jewish life here.
The next day, I take the time to step in front of my grandmother's apartment with the only item we have of her brother, a ring. He vanished in 1944 never to be found. His memory is contained in a Yav Vashem testimony page.
So, as I leave for Berlin (next blog post to follow), I look forward to coming back in 5 days this time with over 140 Jewish Federation leaders. I feel like I just started to uncover Budapest, I feel the shadows in the past, the memory and I am hopeful for the future here.
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